LET'S ACKNOWLEDGE MENSWEAR DESIGN

PICTURED: MARK MCNAIRY IS ONE OF THE SIX FINALISTS IN GQ 'BEST NEW MENSWEAR DESIGNER IN AMERICA' COMPETITION FOR 2012
(SOURCE: MEN.STYLE.COM)

Womenswear has ELLE New Talent and in the US, there’s the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund through which designers like Thakoon were nurtured. What about menswear? Well, GQ in the US has- for the past six years- been running the ‘Best New Menswear Designer in America’ competition and this year, all six candidates will design a collection for The Gap. Well renowned designer Michael Bastian was part of the 2011 crop of designers, even after several years in the industry. The thing is it’s not about how long one has been in the industry. Nurturing talent is about elevating the designers’ game, helping their public profile while elevating the status of menswear in general. Alternatively, there could just be an award to acknowledge this unfortunately ignored part of South African fashion. I’m not suggesting that it be GQ SA specifically, but we all know how little attention independent local menswear receives both in the South African media and the industry itself. Colleges don’t churn out a lot of designers in this category. Interest to draw talent towards the category needs to be cultivated somehow. Would it be too much to ask for fashion industry stakeholders to consider a menswear fund or challenge that is independent of African Fashion International’s Fasttrack? I, for one, am still sad about how Nkululeko Msibi was overshadowed by his womenswear design counterparts at last year's event.

SUPREMEBEING STREETWEAR IS SIMPLY BEAUTIFUL, YOU'LL FALL IN LOVE

Few things are more comfortable than a tee and denims, paired with sneakers, but who says you gotta look drab doing it? I hate looking overly simple and Supremebeing is one of those labels I am falling in love with because it has a perfect blend of quirk and simplicity. Just look at these pics...

Supremebeing is available at Stuttafords

PICS: SUPREMEBEING

MODERN TRADITIONALIST MALE

I'm not the most conservative of dressers but some things are just to die for. Burberry does traditional in such a way that I find myself yearning for the tailored look but also strikes the balance with the sort of modernity that appeals to those of us who like to show the middle finger to conservatism. These are some of my favourite looks from the Burberry show at London Fashion Week.

PICS: NYMAG.COM AND GQ.COM

DUDE, I LOVE YOUR SKIRT

PIC: THE SARTORIALIST

Being sartorially adventurous yields different results for different people. It can either work wonders (like my blouse-wearing ways that everyone seems to like *big grin*) or it can simply be disastrous. Few things make me smile more than a guy who pushes the envelope without falling into 'tries-too-hard' category and this dude in a skirt does it for me... I love the look!

DREAMIN' UP A WINTER WARDROBE

JEFF HALMOS, DESIGNER AT NEW YORK DESIGN HOUSE 'SHIPLEY AND HALMOS'
SOURCE: GQ.COM

How smart is this look?

Q&A WITH KEITH HENNING OF MENSWEAR LABEL 'ADRIAAN KUITERS'

As promised, I am doing a series of Q&As with South African menswear designers and the first in this series is Keith Henning of the label 'Adriaan Kuiters'. Here's what he had to say...

There aren’t a lot of independent menswear designers in South Africa. Why did you, specifically, follow this path?
Design is something I feel passionate about. I felt that the current offering in the market wasn't very appealing (and) I Wanted to create a menswear brand that is simple and easy to wear.

What are some of the challenges that you would say you face as, firstly, a designer, and what do menswear designers in particular have to deal with?

Sourcing fabric in south africa is a challenge due to quality and availability, especially within the realm of menswear options. I pride my work on the fact that I produce a high standard design through unique and high quality fabrics.

　
If you look at fashion week, all 5 hosted in SA, there are always only a few menswear designers. Is Adriaan Kuiters not interested in the concept of fashion week? Will we ever see a collection at any fashion week?
Currently I am still occupied with building a high quality mens' and accessory brand. It is in future planning, so keep an eye out.

　
What would it take, in your opinion, to cultivate more menswear design talent and why do you think students are barely interested in the category?
Menswear is a tougher industry due to conservative spending and big supply stores, which leaves little space in South Africa for new talent and small brands. Younger generations are however becoming more aware of unique, independent, local design, so there is potential for growth and support.

　
Do the big retailers have any role to play in terms of promoting independent local menswear design talent?
No.

Visit http://adriaankuiters.com for details and http://astoreisgood.com to shop

STYLE PROFILE WITH SA'S FIRST FEMALE GALLERY OWNER

This post was originally published in 'The Frock Report'. In case you don't follow 'The Frock Report', here goes it...

The owner of SIBISI, the art gallery that opens its doors in Melrose Arch, Johannesburg this evening, is a fashion addict who counts Valentino, David Tlale, Thula Sindi and Elie Saab among her favourite designers. At tonight’s opening, she tells me she’ll be dressed in a ball gown designed by the latter along with a pair of Jimmy Choos.

“I’ve always been into art,” says the 25 year-old, “Growing up in rural KwaZulu-Natal, I’ve always been a creative and it started with me as a person, wrapping myself up in black plastics and imagining that I’m dressed in haute couture.”

Thandi says she has no particular personal fashion icons but draws her style inspiration from everything she does as well as her cultural background. The Elie Saab gown she’ll be wearing tonight, she adds, will be accessorised with a Zulu hat (isicholo), which she designed and had made by crafters in Mahlabathini, northern KZN. “I’m a very traditional woman and I see my body as my canvas, which I wake up everyday wanting to paint.”

But don’t be fooled into thinking that Thandi is into just wearing ball gowns and tutus- something she tells me she is wearing during our short telephone conversation- she has a chameleon-like style. “Sometimes you’ll find me in a Tom Ford men’s suit, paired with Converse All Stars,” she chuckles, “I also own a lot of bow ties.”

GIVE ME THOSE RAG AND BONES!!!

There's no doubt that colour is not about to disappear from the rails- let alone our wardrobes- as winter looms. At an Edgars Winter preview I went to recently, this was evident as the retailer showed us what they expect to have in stores soon. The message was clear- it's going to be a colourful winter (*rolls eyes at the colour blockers*)!

I don't mind. This summer I have to admit that I did develop a healthy apetite for colour and bought myself a couple of striped tops, solid brights and, my favourite, polka dots. As summer draws to a close, I'll be looking for colour in all things I buy to keep warm this winter and while browsing through the web the coat pictured below (from Rag and Bone's A/W 12 showcase at New York Fashion Week) really caught my eye.

RAG AND BONE A/W 12
SOURCE: MEN.STYLE.COM

How wonderful it would be to own one of its kind!

WHY I LOVE SUZAAN HEYNS

PIC: A preview of Suzaan Heyn's Autumn/Winter 2012 campaign shot by Chris Saunders.

Suzaan Heyns is, for me, one of the few local designers who are able to present beautiful, wearable fashion without taking the 'show' out of 'fashion week show'. Sitting on those seats, watching the models sachay down the runway it is easy to assume that, well, Heyns is just another avant garde designer- beautiful, but how practical? That's until you actually get to see the garments in close range and touch the various pieces that make up a look from any of the shows. You come to a realisation that it is nothing more than the styling of the looks she puts the models in during the runway shows that make it seem like the clothes are not practical. I love that! Too many designers make a point of making locally produced fashion so 'eventy' that one ends up asking how worthy their clothes are of one's hard earned cash if spending a pretty penny only gives you one date with the garments. Those who lean more towards 'pret-a-porter' also tend to overdo it to a point where it just feels too pedestrian. Suzaan Heyns knows hopw to strike a balance!
It is with this in mind that I wish her the best of luck with the 'Most Beautiful Object in South Africa' award for which she is nominated for at this year's Design Indaba.

DIGGIN' (FOR SOME SOUTH AFRICAN) MENSWEAR

It’s no secret that menswear is a sore point for the South African fashion industry. There’s a serious drought of talent. I can’t say ‘lack of’ because I’d like to believe that we do have some talented young designers who will one day soon surprise us with their brilliant take on menswear. Sure we have the likes of Shaldon Kopman, Stiaan Louw, Ole Ledimo, David West, Carducci and Fabiani representing for the dudes, but the fact is that South African menswear is severely underdeveloped.

NAKED APE AT THE SA FASHION WEEK S/S 11/12
PIC:SIMON DEINER/SDR PHOTO

Last year, fellow blogger Marco Riekstins weighed in on the issue after the African Fashion Awards failed to award a menswear designer accolade. “Menswear needs a category to inspire a struggling medium.,” he blogged. “Cancelling such an award feels like we have given up on menswear altogether when we still have enough time to provide support. Even if we help current menswear survive what can we say of those looking to make a career of men’s fashion in the future?”

Earlier in 2011, at African Fashion International’s Fasttrack competition, a young menswear designer by the name of Nkululeko Msibi went largely unnoticed.

Personally, I’d like to put a stop to the moaning and begin to share stories about menswear designers. Over the next couple of months I’m going to be posting a series of profiles, Q&As, etc about menswear designers, known and unknown and hopefully help to get the debate started on how South Africa can give support to this, what Marco refers to as a ‘struggling medium’.
Should you have any suggestion for menswear designers anywhere in the country that I can profile, please do not hesitate to either leave a comment with their name and a little background info or email me on sandisongubane@ymail.com

FASHION POLITICS

Check this out, an illustration by Alexsandro Palombo of Humorchic.blogspot.com depicting Anna Wintour in bed with US President Barack Obama. Lol. I don't know about them being bed pals, but on Tuesday night, Wintour hosted yet another party for the big O in a bid to get him re-elected. She convinced designers to create "Obama" merchandise and all and claimed that the runway is now "a force for change in politics". As the folk at Vogue will tell you... 'What Anna says, goes!'

SA'S FIRST BLACK FEMALE GALLERY OWNER

Pictured here is Thandi Sibisi, the 25 year-old who will next week become the first black, female gallery owner in South Africa when the doors to SIBISI in Melrose Arch, Johannesburg, open on Thursday.
The opening exhibition, according to the press release, will feature Kenya's Shake Makelele as well as the works of South African artists Dumile Feni, Cecil Skotnes, Robert Hodgkins, Diane Victor, Bronwyn Findlay, Astrid Dahl, Ezrom Legae, Amos Letsoalo and Carl Bekker, to name a few.
SIBISI opens on the 16th of February.